Wine
Walla Walla in Springtime
Wine writer Jake Kosseff reports on spring reds—syrah, malbec, and cabernet sauvignon—from Walla Walla, focusing on the up-and-coming wineries to watch

Walla Walla producers such as Leonetti Cellars, Woodward Canyon and L’Ecole No. 41 have become household names in Washington wine. Based on my last few visits to the area, it is apparent that these wineries, along with many other wineries in Walla Walla, are making better wine than ever. But springtime reminds me of youth, and I’ve been thinking about who will be the next generation of household names from Walla Walla. Here are four of my favorite newer wineries. All are worth a try and possibly even a visit—because Walla Walla’s Spring Release Weekend is upon us, May 3 and 4.

Founded by Justin and Liz Wylie, Va Piano Vineyards had its first release in 2005. Justin, the winemaker, was inspired by a year spent in Florence and the “blossoming wine scene” in Walla Walla that he found upon his return. He strives to make balanced reds that reflect the unique characteristics of Washington. His wines are powerful and spicy, but with an unmistakable elegance. When you visit the Tuscan-styled tasting room, prepare to be charmed by the wines—as well as by Justin, Liz and their dog, Bruno.

In 2007, Trey Busch opened the doors at Sleight of Hand. He named the winery for a Pearl Jam song and is a fanatical fan, as well as “the best air guitarist in the world,” according to Mark McNeilly, owner of Mark Ryan Winery. What makes Busch’s wines special? “Small lots of the highest-quality grapes are cared for by me,” Busch says. “I taste and evaluate every barrel and decide what makes the cut.” He also staffs the tasting room, so visitors will get intimate knowledge about the wines, and he adds, “You can choose your own music to listen to.”

2007 also saw the first release from Wines of Substance, a joint project between Jamie Brown of Waters Winery and Greg Harrington of Gramercy Cellars. Brown and Harrington describe their winery as an opportunity to make balanced, terroir-driven wines for reasonable prices. They have succeeded admirably: The wines are delicious and retail for $18 a bottle. As yet, they have no tasting room, but the Web site is worth a look; it is designed to be fun and informative in what Harrington calls an “easy-to-read, nonsnobby style.”

Tom and Kathleen Schafer and their children, Anna and Nicolas and wife Stephanie, are all directly involved in the winery they named for Tom’s father, à Maurice Cellars. Anna, who shares winemaking responsibilities with Ned Morris, says the winery is deeply committed to sustainability in both grape-growing and winemaking. These practices not only make for better wine but will ensure that à Maurice Cellars can continue making great wine in the future. The wines are beautiful, and there is a great tasting room just outside of town.

Tasting Notes

2006 Va Piano Vineyards Syrah
Walla Walla Valley & Columbia Valley | $38
This wine is powerful with layers of blackberry, smoke and Asian spices, plus silky tannins and a long finish. From Lewis, Portteus, Ranch at the End of the Road, Minnick and Va Piano Estate vineyards. For release May 1 at the winery; June 1 at retail stores and restaurants. Available at The Wine Alley (14276 S.E. 176th St., Renton; 425-271-4501), Compass Wines (1405 Commercial Ave., Anacortes; 360-293-6500) and Esquin Wine Merchants (2700 Fourth Ave. S.; 206-682-7374).

2005 à Maurice Malbec
Columbia Valley | $34
Full of blueberry, plum, grilled meat and sweet baking spices, this wine is surprisingly elegant; it’s a big wine with a very soft touch. From Gamache Vineyards.
Available at McCarthy & Schiering.

2006 Sleight of Hand Levitation Syrah
Columbia Valley | $100
(ON RESTAURANT WINE LISTS)
Blackberry, plum, black pepper and saucy barbecue dominate in this amply proportioned and very intriguing wine. From Hedges, Walulla and Red Willow vineyards.
Wine will be released in May, but the 80 cases have already been sold to local restaurants such as Union, El Gaucho and Wild Ginger. Other Sleight of Hand wines are available at McCarthy & Schiering, Esquin and Whole Foods.

2006 Substance Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley | $18
Flavors of red currant, black cherries, spice and vanilla are balanced by hints of olive and fresh herbs, soft tannins and moderate acidity. This is a really pretty wine. From Pepper Bridge, Forgotten Hills, Nostra Terra, Phinny Hill and Sagemore vineyards. Available at Metropolitan Markets and McCarthy & Schiering.


Jake Kosseff is the 2006 Chaine des Rotisseurs “Best Young Sommelier in America” and the founder of The Extraordinary Dining Society. As a private consultant, Jake advises local restaurants and wine collectors on all matters pertaining to wine.